My great, great, great uncle Edwin was part of an expedition that changed the way we think about the world. And I’m returning to the place he explored nearly 200 years ago, the Galápagos Islands!

“Nature has a way to amaze us all the time,” she said. Banner image of a Galapagos rail courtesy of Island Conservation.

On his visit to the islands in 1835, Charles Darwin noticed the slight differences between the same types of animal on each island. This helped him work out how they had adapted to their ...