At New York City's Craft, Tom Colicchio pairs chef James Tracey's pea-bacon risotto with Mark Tarlov's Oregon Pinot Noir: "It was great to find someone who was excited about creating a house wine." ...

He starts by rendering fat from quality bacon; Fultineer uses bacon from Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams in Tennessee, which is famous for its intense smokiness. The rendered bacon fat is ...