As I head out of town, veering back toward the jagged peaks, the roadside flickers with the warm glow of vintage neon motels and weathered cowboy shops. Elko might seem like a blink-and-you’ll ...

On the edge of town, I see the below sign ... A star of this show — a star of the Elko gathering, and of cowboy poetry generally — is Paul Zarzyski. Maybe not your typical cowboy name ...