and stir-fry until the potato is just soft, but still with a little crunch, 5–6 minutes. Remove from heat and add tamari and vinegar. Season well with sea salt and white pepper. Serve with rice.

Tip into a mortar and crush coarsely with the pestle, then stir in the sea-salt flakes. Heat a wok over a high heat until smoking. Add half the oil and half the squid and stir-fry it for 2 minutes ...