On the map we passed from Tuscany through Lazio and into Umbria; but in our mind's eye we were in Etruria, a land as timeless as Shakespeare's Illyria and twice as tangible. Long ago, colossal ...

Nestled in central Italy, Umbria is an underrated landlocked region where you can experience the vibes of Tuscany without the crowds. Speckled with medieval hilltop villages, winding, cypress ...

From Tuscany we crossed into Umbria, skirting the shores of Lake Trasimeno to the town of Montefalco. We based ourselves there for a few nights so we could explore the heart of the country.