Christmas gifts are traditionally given on Epiphany in Spain and in many Latin American countries. Children write letters to the magi on the feast’s eve, requesting presents.

For many Spaniards the day is as significant as Christmas. The annual Three Kings parades, held on 5 January, are a much-loved feature of Spanish Christmas celebrations.

The high humidity made the heat even more oppressive. In the town hospital I met a young Spanish physician, Dr. Ramon Vila. Calm and self-assured, he radiated warmth.