Set to open later this month, Nōksu will offer an upmarket tasting menu experience at a definitively plebeian location: A former barbershop in the 34th Street Herald Square subway station.

If eating in the subway is this city’s last ... Sealed off from the traffic of a normal restaurant, Noksu can feel — as can many tasting counters where dinner for two easily reaches $1,000 ...

A long, 12-seat black granite counter ... the subway entrance. But the black iron gate was still firmly locked when I went to check it out in July. So I went a more conventional way: The ...