Madeira’s levadas (pictured) date back over 500 years, explains Nigel's guide. Bordered by a level footpath, these gently flowing irrigation channels run for more than 2,000 miles and penetrate ...

The grande dame of Funchal's hotels is Reid's Palace (5) at Estrada Monumental 139 (00 351 291 71 71 71; www.reidspalace.com), built by the son of a Kilmarnock farmer and opened in 1891.

Pat Underwood has been visiting Funchal for 30 years. She and her husband are the authors of Landscapes of Madeira and Madeira: Walk&Eat.