Bertrand was also a sharply candid guide to the history, culture and politics of Dominica as we maneuvered to 18th-century Fort Shirley and then to a rowboat expedition up the tidal Indian River.

My guide, Derick Joseph, was more certain. “Segment 6,” he said, pushing aside the thick growth. “This is definitely the start of Segment 6.” ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW Report an error ...